APPLICATIONS OF A NUMERICAL MODEL OF SWASH ZONE FLOW ON GRAVEL BEACHES
A one-dimensional numerical model of the swash zone has been extended to include flow within a porous layer. The effect of exchange between the two water layers (free-flow and porous-flow) on the bed shear stress has been included in the model by solving the equations of motion for the bottom boundary layer with a modified velocity profile. Applications of the model for design of coastal defence structures are given.