CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ON MIXED COARSE GRAIN SIZED BEACHES: MODELING AND MEASUREMENTS

A 1–D phase resolving numerical wave model, based on the Boussinesq equations is coupled to a multiple sized grain sediment transport module and a morphodynamic module. The wave model incorporates the effects of breaking waves by a roller formulation. The sediment transport module includes a hiding function to estimate sediment transport rates for the different sediment fractions in the sediment. The morphodynamic module integrates the sediment flow rate to model an evolving bed, and models the change in sediment fraction composition by a sorting algorithm.