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Chapter 6: Numerical Modeling of Nearshore Wave Transformation

    https://doi.org/10.1142/9789814449434_0006Cited by:1 (Source: Crossref)
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    Abstract:

    The following sections are included:

    • Introduction

    • Wave Refraction

      • Law of wave refraction

      • Karlsson's energy conservation equation

      • Effect of current

    • Wave Diffraction

      • Helmholtz equation

      • Analytical solutions

      • Green-function method

    • Combined Refraction and Diffraction

      • Mild-slope equation

      • Time-dependentmild-slope equations

      • Parabolic equation

      • Nonlinear shallow-water equations

      • Boussinesq equations

      • Nonlinear mild-slope equations

    • Assumptions and Applicabilities of Wave Equations

    • Concluding Remarks

    • References

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