LAGRANGIAN SIMULATION OF BREAKING WAVES USING PARTICLE METHOD

A Lagrangian numerical simulation of breaking waves is performed by the moving particle semi-implicit (MPS) method, in which the Navier-Stokes equation is discritized based on the interaction of particles. The Eulerian numerical solvers of the Navier-Stokes equation with the volume of fluid (VOF) method have difficulties in the calculation of the free surface due to the existence of the numerical diffusion derived from the advection terms. To attenuate the numerical diffusion, the procedures of the calculation of the cells involving the free surface should be very complicated one in Eulerian models. While, the MPS method is free from the numerical diffusion, hence it can calculate the free surface clearly, even under the existence of the fragmentation and the coalescence of fluid. In this study, the breaking waves are simulated on the several bottom configurations, namely a uniform slope, a permeable uniform slope and a vertical wall with small step on its foot. The time series of the water surface profiles and the velocity fields are displayed to show the performance of the MPS method in the wave breaking simulations.