CROSS-SHORE LONG-WAVE PROPAGATION AT RIA FORMOSA (PORTUGAL)

As a first step towards the improvement of the characterization of long wave activity at the southern coast of mainland Portugal, a numerical model was developed to simulate wave propagation perpendicular to the coast. This numerical wave tank solves the non-linear initial boundary value problem associated to wave propagation by means of a direct boundary element method. Some preliminary results of the study on the influence of bottom morphology on bound long wave propagation are presented in this paper, which includes also a characterization of the wave storms at the Algarve. The numerical results together with field measurements, still to be carried out, will enable the assessment of the free long wave energy fraction that is produced by the wave group shoaling.