Chapter 7: Prediction of Waves in Shallow Water

The following sections are included:

• Introduction

• Basic Wave Processes in Shallow Water

  • Wave refraction due to bottom shoaling

  • Refraction by currents in a shoaling water depth

    • Propagation of random waves in an inhomogeneous region

    • Influence of uniform current on a saturation range spectrum

  • Combined refraction and diffraction

    • A brief orientation

    • Geometrical optics and mild-slope approximation

    • Time-dependent mild-slope equation

    • Extended mild-slope equations

    • Mild-slope equations for random waves

    • Influence of energy dissipation

    • Wave set-down and set-up

  • Reflection of ocean waves

  • Wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction

    • A brief orientation

    • Probability distribution of the bottom shear stress

    • Eddy viscosity approach for bottom boundary layer

  • Energy dissipation due to bottom permeability

  • Nonlinear interaction between spectral wave components

  • The largest wave height in water of constant depth

    • Non-linearity parameter F_c for practical use

    • Application of higher approximations of Stokes’ and cnoidal theories

    • Limiting wave height for mechanically generated waves

    • Maximum irregular wave height

• Wave Prediction Numerical Models

  • Early years prediction models

    • Third generation wave models

    • Wave prediction models for shallow waters

  • Empirical prediction models

    • SPM prediction method

    • Krylov prediction method