Chapter 2: Random Waves in the Sea

The following sections are included:

• Introduction

• Description of Random Sea Waves

  • Linear model of random sea surface

  • Spectral representation of sea waves

  • Statistical representation by wave-by-wave analysis

• Standard Functional Forms of Wave Spectrum

  • Single-peaked frequency spectrum

  • Directional spreading function

  • Multi-peaked wave spectrum

• Statistical Distributions of Wave Heights and Periods

  • Distribution of wave heights

  • Joint distribution of wave heights and periods

  • Spectral effects on wave heights and periods

  • Wave grouping

• Properties of Weakly Nonlinear Waves

  • Parameters of wave nonlinearity

  • Wave nonlinearity effects on wave heights and periods

  • Nonlinear spectral components and infragravity waves

• Incorporation of Wave Randomness in Engineering Practice

  • Spectral transformation of refraction, diffraction, and reflection

  • Wave breaking and generation of longshore currents

  • Wave actions on structures

• Summary

• References