International Journal of Ocean and Coastal Engineering

The entrained air and turbulence characteristics under a breaking solitary wave on a 1:20 sloping beach are investigated through laboratory measurement. Free surface elevation is obtained from wave gauge measurements. Wave breaking process is captured in detail by a high-speed camera. The bubble image velocimetry (BIV) is used to measure the velocity and the fiber optic reflectometer (FOR) is used to capture instantaneous void fraction in the aerated region. The mean void fraction and velocities in the aerated region are obtained by ensemble averaging over 22 repetitions. Results show that the maximum mean void fraction is 0.6 in the collapsing cavity region and is 0.35 in the splash up region. The time series of the mean void fraction has good synchronization with the instantaneous images taken by high-speed camera. The maximum horizontal velocity occurs in the splash up region and reaches 1.17C shortly after the plunging jet hits the water surface, with C being the phase speed of the primary wave. The turbulence intensities over the entire aerated region are presented and discussed. The measured data can be used for the calibration and verification of the numerical model for aerated flows simulation under breaking waves in the surf zone.

This case study reports results from field observations and numerical simulations of waves and morphological changes along a portion of Kaanapali Beach on West Maui, Hawaii, which is protected by a hard coral reef and experiences shoreline changes from season to season. The SWAN spectral wave model shows reasonable agreement with ADCP observations of wave-heights for the winter months. Simulated beach profile change over one-month time frame was able to reasonably capture the trend of beach face migration (accretion or erosion); the modeled shoreline also shows satisfactory agreement with beach survey data. This case study suggests that Delft3D is able to capture key features of sediment transport along a narrow beach protected by a fringing reef.