Generation, Transformation and Deformation of Random Sea Waves

The following sections are included:

• Simplified Forecasting Method of Wind Waves and Swell

  • Simplified Forecast of Wave Height and Period

  • Simplified Forecast of Swell Height and Period

  • Relationship Between Significant Height and Period of Wind Waves and Swell

• Wave Refraction

  • Introduction

  • Refraction Coefficient of Random Sea Waves

  • Computation of Random Wave Refraction by Means of the Energy Balance Equation

  • Wave Refraction on a Coast with Straight, Parallel Depth-Contours

• Wave Diffraction

  • Principle of Random Wave Diffraction Analysis

  • Diffraction Diagrams of Random Sea Waves

  • Random Wave Diffraction of Oblique Incidence

  • Approximate Estimation of Diffracted Height by the Angular Spreading Method

  • Applicability of Regular Wave Diffraction Diagrams

• Equivalent Deepwater Wave

• Wave Shoaling

• Wave Deformation Due to Random Breaking

  • Breaker Index of Regular Waves

  • Hydrodynamics of Surf Zone

  • Wave Height Variations on Planar Beaches

  • Prediction of Random Wave Breaking Process on Beaches of Complicated Profiles

• Reflection of Waves and Their Propagation and Dissipation

  • Coefficient of Wave Reflection

  • Propagation of Reflected Waves

  • Superposition of Incident and Reflected Waves

• Spatial Variation of Wave Height Along Reflective Structures

  • Wave Height Variation Near the Tip of a Semi-Infinite Structure

  • Wave Height Variation at an Inward Corner of Reflective Structures

  • Wave Height Variation Along an Island Breakwater

• Wave Transmission at Breakwaters and Low-Crested Structures

  • Wave Transmission Coefficient of Composite Breakwaters

  • Wave Transmission Coefficient of Low-Crested Structures

  • Propagation of Transmitted Waves in a Harbor

• References